SOTD - May 17, 2018

CL and WK

Shaving Product Review - Chatillon Lux and Wholly Kaw "Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli"

Value (Cost, Packaging and Performance)

Lather (Density, Glide and Feel)

Post-shave (Healing, Moisture and Feel)

Scent (Quality, Strength and Longevity)

Each bar has three metrics, each representing 33% of the total (11% = below-avg, 22% = avg, 33% = above-avg, except cost)

Chatillon Lux and Wholly Kaw with a mixed re-release of Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli in an #aftershave (toner), #soap and new Eau de Toilette!

The rich, zesty scent of an Asian citrus fruit, yuzu, with a touch of neroli, envelops a seamless accord of sweet rose and woody patchouli for this scent perfectly suited for the recently arrived spring weather. It is an homage to the gardens of Henry Shaw, a philanthropist and botanical enthusiast whose gardens are Saint Louis' present-day Missouri Botanical Gardens and Tower Grove Park.

I've reviewed a lot of both #chatillonlux and #whollykaw here (click on any of those hashtags to see them all) so I won't get into the soap or aftershave performance here. Furthermore, I've already done an in-depth review of Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli (sans the #EdT, which is new today). So I'll be talking about the latter.

I would've used the current release of the soap made by Declaration Grooming but because of a shipping delay (due to Scott going on a much deserved vacation) it'll have to wait until next time... Which I suspect will be soon! Before Wholly Kaw it was Tallow + Steel that made the soap. So an interesting history for sure. Suffice to say, you can't go wrong with any of these products as they're all top tier and perform appropriately.

On the prior review of this scent, I said this of the aftershave toner:

The blend is simple and deceptive. Simple because of the three notes... They are however, masterfully blended. On the top you get the tangy yuzu, which fades gently into the rosy middle and then onto an earthier, slightly sweet patchouli base. Deceptive, like the patchouli it's founded on... You think you don't really smell it, but then it catches you off guard, like "whoa." Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli is kind of like that. It's tenacious. The soap is a lighter medium in scent strength, but blossoms a bit when lathered. The aftershave holds nothing back and it's got a strong scent strength. Sillage is middling if not strong and longevity excellent at an easy six hours. In fact, I still smell it clearly on the skin at eight hours.

The EdT smells most like the aftershave toner, but is different... This is evidenced by the silver cap - the gold caps are scents that are true to the provisions. Bet you didn't know that! (I had a different theory) Note that Fourth and Pine was an anomaly due to supplier issues. The soaps are a different story; the scent strength on the Tallow + Steel version is a bit stronger, while the Wholly Kaw version is a bit lighter, with more rose to the accord (thanks to the Wholly Kaw sourced rose accord). The Declaration Grooming version should be most true to the aftershave toner, splash and salve (balm). But back to the EdT...

Obviously, the scent strength is much more robust, being in an Eau de Toilette concentration. But like other Chatillon Lux EdTs (e.g. Santal Auster) it is further modified and refined, to take advantage of the cleaner medium and embolden the olfactory experience. The best reference is a blog post on the Chatillon Lux site called Scent Notes: Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli. Specifically, on the differences:

First of all, I looked to add more dimension to the sweet yuzu accord by adding some bitter Japanese yuzu along with neroli, a bitter orange scent. This creates a richer opening and more complex evolution, as well as creating a fixative effect on the citrus notes in the accord.

After that, I expanded upon the rose accord in the middle, adding elements of geranium to help distinguish the sweet rose accord used in the aftershave while heightening elements that would help it meld more seamlessly with the citrus notes in order help create a smoother evolution of scent, a challenge that is far less necessary in an aftershave concentration.

Finally, I added different patchoulis to the mix in order to enhance the woody aspects of the note, evening out the rubbery elements that lend itself to mesh with the rose accord and create a thicker, woodier base.

Indeed, the EdT is much more citrusy out of the gate. The yuzu was already quite pungent and tangy but is now balanced wonderfully with the bitter Japanese yuzu and neroli. This makes the normally singular top note more complex. Of course, being citrus, it diminishes somewhat quickly (but never truly disappears) to reveal the middle notes - rose... But again, the normally singular note takes on an added dimension by way of geranium, resulting in a sweeter, more floral and "less rosy rose." Finally, the base of patchouli gets a similar treatment and is less earthy and "rubbery" and more woodsy. It's sourced from Spain, and a bit hard to obtain... But well worth it. What you're left with is a slightly sweet, floral rose combining with the woodsy patchouli and hints of bitter citrus undertones. Distinctly different than the aftershave toner - but complementary.

Sillage is a strong for about 2-3 hours before settling down nicely to a medium and a few more until it becomes just light. Longevity is a healthy 6+ hours on the skin but more like 8-10+ on clothing. Like I said before (and repeated above) - this stuff is tenacious.

Hardware today consisted of my customized #TimelessRazor #TRBR78 which features a heavy patina and verdigris (more details and pictures) with an #Astra blade on shave three. The brush is a nicely matching monster frmo #ThatDarnRob called Pueblo with a 30mm two-band knot from Maggard Razors. It's truly a beast - but such a joy to use. It's still breaking in, but getting softer with every shave. The cool thing is, even after the third pass, the core of the knot is still rather warm from the initial soak in the #GTP scuttle. It's a lather machine and the knot, even very slightly splayed - covers the entire surface of the soap in the tub!

The much-loved scent of Yuzu/Rose/Patchouli has leveled up with this release of an official EdT, adding extra dimensions to each stage of the accord and overall longevity. Different, yet complementary to the shaving provisions much as Santal Auster EdT is to its own. Clearly, Chatillon Lux is flexing its perfuming muscles with these EdTs and each is a real tribute to its founding products - yet dialing it up to eleven. Good show! As mentioned, keep an eye out for the forthcoming "re-review" with the latest matching soap, from Declaration Grooming.